Dig a large hole, twice the depth and spread of the root ball of the container you just purchased. This will give your bamboo open ground in which to establish itself over the first few years. If you're planting in heavy clay soil make sure you have adequate drainage. If not, you must create a berm or raised bed with good free draining garden soil. None of the bamboos like standing water around their roots for very long. Dig in plenty of organic matter (well-rotted composted steer manure is a good choice) particularly if your ground is sandy or poor in nutrients. Plant your bamboo so that the root ball is buried maybe an inch under the surface as this will provide stability and help retain water. Bamboo will survive almost anywhere, but will do exceptionally well if given regular doses of organic fertilizer, and or a top dressing of organic composted manure and good irrigation through the dry summer months.

Here in our garden we do not advocate the use of artificial petroleum based fertilizers and summer irrigation for established plantings. If you have heavy clay soils which are already rich in nutrients you do not need to add much beyond a good organic mulch to achieve excellent results. Sometimes we use blood meal on some plantings to boost the nitrogen level of the soil but it's always used sparingly. I believe the plant should find its own way over time and adjust naturally to the existing growing conditions. In my opinion, you will have a much stronger plant as a result. Your bamboo will be able to resist stress much better (drought, excessive hot & cold temperatures, pests and the enemy east wind) without you having to coddle it. Here in Portland bamboo can be very low maintenance if you let it be.

With that being said, water your new bamboo well through at least the first two dry summer seasons until the plant is well established. Too much water and all the leaves will start to yellow, not enough water and the leaves will curl length wise. The amount of irrigation is subjective per the size of the clump or grove. Generally I use the least amount of water as needed using a water bucket to monitor the amount. Sometimes depending on the species its normal for the leaves to curl length wise when exposed to full sun. Do not worry though as the leaves will re-open when shade returns. It’s imperative that during that first summer you do not let the plant completely dry out. Forgetting to water a new planting even once could set back your bamboo a season or two, or even kill it. Bamboo is very drought tolerant and typically won't need additional irrigation after establishment.

For the enthusiast, the bottom line is that if you want the largest and most robust bamboo for the planting site location, you'll need to irrigate and fertilize on a regular basis. Feed your bamboo in the early spring, mid and late summer. Use a high nitrogen organic grass fertilizer that does not contain any weed killer. The alternative and least expensive way to fertilize is to apply a 2" to 4" layer of organic composted manure in late summer or early autumn so the winter rains can wash in all the nutrients. Use composted chicken manure sparingly since it has such a high nitrogen content and can potentially burn your bamboo. Personally I have not noticed any difference in performance between composted organic manure and petroleum based fertilizer that I used in prior years with the non-invasive bamboo species. They actually perform quite well with the existing nutrients in the ground without much additional help from you.

The running species do exceptionally well with a regular schedule of fertilizer applications but again I encourage you to use any fertilizer sparingly. The soils we have here on the west side of the Cascades generally are acid based and very nutrient rich for bamboo. The use of any non-organic fertilizer is highly discouraged since it will cause a soil imbalance over a short period of time. 

Running bamboo such as the Phyllostachys species have more open groves with strong outstanding culms. Every two to three years remove the smaller and weaker stems. This leaves the larger more upright culms to show off their best and allows more light into the center of the grove. For the clump forming Fargesia, Borinda and Thamnocalamus bamboos this is usually not necessary but some moderate thinning would not be harmful. As bamboo sheds its leaves throughout the year they should be left on the ground around the plant to act as a natural mulch. As they decompose they also put back essential nutrients the plant needs to perform its best. Every bamboo loves a thick organic mulch and it is a "must have" for the plant to thrive.

Be good to your bamboo and it will reward you in many ways!